Free Preview Lesson: Cutting Layers in Section 1

In this lesson, I will show you the basic principle of how I create layers in section 1 when cutting curly hair dry.

The goal is to build shape without removing too much fullness at the bottom. This is especially important with curls, because the balance between weight, shape, and movement is what makes the haircut work.

Step 1: Start in section 1

Continue working in section 1.

Take the next horizontal subsection of approximately 3 centimetres and connect the length to your guide line.

Keep working with horizontal subsections until the hair at the bottom looks full enough to support layering.

A simple way to recognise this point is:

you can no longer see through the hair
and the cutting cape is no longer visible

This tells you there is enough weight at the perimeter to start creating layers.

Step 2: Adjust to the client’s density

Not every client has enough density for layers. If the hair is too fine or too sparse, it is better to continue with a one-length line up to the parting rather than forcing layers that will make the shape look thin. This is why curly cutting should always be customised to the client in front of you.

Step 3: Create the layer

Once there is enough fullness at the bottom, take the next horizontal subsection of 3 centimetres.

From that subsection, take a vertical subsection of 2 centimetres wide.

Then bring the hair back according to the curl type:

45° back for Afro hair
90° back for curly hair
135° back for wavy hair

Follow the guide line — the lower curl — and connect the length.

Work through the horizontal subsection from left to right, or the other way around, and continue like this up to the parting.

Why the angles change

The angle changes because not every curl type behaves in the same way.

Wavy hair often needs more elevation to create movement without becoming heavy
Curly hair usually responds well to a balanced 90° projection
Afro hair often needs less projection to maintain strength and shape

This is one of the key principles in my cutting method:
the technique should follow the curl pattern, density, and behaviour of the hair.

Wavy hair: 135°
Curly hair: 90°
Afro hair: 45°

This is a short preview from the Online Curly Hair Cutting Course

In the full course, I explain the complete cutting method step by step with text, illustrations, and additional videos for wavy, curly, and Afro-textured hair. If you want to learn my complete step-by-step method for cutting all curl types, join the full course here.